Vivienne Westwood // Active Resistance

After watching Vivienne Westwood on Friday Night with Jonathon Ross (aired 10th July 2009) I had to include a link here to her 'Active Resistance' manifesto regarding climate change and mention her inspirational ideas and belief in 'DIY fashion'

Check out her interview on iplayer (although this will expire in a few weeks) so there is also a clip on YouTube

Take a look at her Active Resistance manifesto

And her handwritten 'Fashion DIY' manifesto is included on 'styleontrack' blog.

Wardrobe Refashion

Wardrobe Refashion

Is a fantastic blog based in Melbourne, Australia, encouraging it's viewers to recycle and upcycle unwanted posessions.

The slogan on their home page reads:

'I pledge that I shall refashion, renovate and recycle preloved items for myself for the term of my contract. I pledge that I shall create and craft items of clothing for myself with my own hands in fabric, yarn or other medium for the term of my contract.'

Those that take the pledge are also encouraged to post images, comment and give advice to other makers about their creations.

It's great to see a community website based around upcycling, reuse and DIY fashion. It is a platform for all people to showcase their creations, regardless of ability. The key link is enthusiasm and an interest in sustainability and DIY clothing. Realising the potential of clothing and extending the life cycle of unwanted clothing to create unique garment designs remains at the heart of upcycling.

PreLoved

I was told about this brand last night at a party by a friend of a friend to whom I had explained the kind of work I do and what this blog is about. I had never heard of Preloved before so I checked it out and thought it was worth a mention because it's a good website with amazing upcycled clothes - and with the emphasis firmly placed on good design and style as well as reclaimed textiles and upcycling!

'Reinvention, Renewal: Preloved creates one-of-a-kind clothing from reclaimed vintage fabrics. Our passion is design and our philosophy is sustainability.' (www.preloved.ca)

MIA

I first heard of MIA after they won the 'Make Your Mark in Fashion' compe-
tition. Young people aged 14-30 were "set the challenge to form a team and create a new brand with the help and support of an established sustainable fashion label" (www.makeyourmarkinfashion.org). When visiting Junky Styling recently I saw a few MIA dresses and thought they were beautiful!

Find out more about MIA and Make Your Mark In Fashion
As also commented on greenmystyle.com

Recycle, Donate, UPcycle

Recycle & Downcycle: Clothing and textiles that can be broken down and used for their fibre content. The yarn and resulting fabric produced may not be of a good quality, in which case this process can be referred to as 'downcycling'. However, if the fibres and yarn produced are similar quality or better than the original, the term recyling is more relevant.

Donate: Passing on clothing of good condition to be sold on and worn again without making any adjustments, usually such items are donated to a charitable organisation.

Upcycle: Clothing most suitable for this category will be clothing that is mostly of good quality but may have a stain or tear in the fabric, or the garment is unwearable in another way. Such clothing will not be taken to a charity shop as it is unsuitable for resale, and for many people the only option for clothing of this nature will be thrown into the bin, thrown 'away'.

UPcycle Couture - Gary Harvey

Taking Re:use and Upcycling to create couture garments.

Gary Harvey shows how every day garments and objects can be used to creates amazing creations.

Pushing the limits and creativity of Upcycling.

EDF Green Britain Day

EDF Energy encourages Green Britain Day on 20.07.09

As well as many other 'green' activities and initiatives EDF are promoting, it is good to see that a green clothing slogan:

'Swapping is the new shopping'

is included in the advertising!

Swap your unwanted clothes for new clothes from others. That cardigan at the back of the wardrobe you never wear anymore may just be the garment someone else is looking for!

TRAID

TRAID
(Textile Recycling for Aid and International Development)

Is another charity also promoting the possibilites and advantages of Upcycling to reduce the amount of textile and clothing waste.

The TRAIDremade collections are currently stocked in the Brighton branch and the flagship store in Camden. As well as accepting donations in store, Traid also collect unwanted clothing around the country in their collection banks such as in the photograph above.

Estethica at London Fashion Week

Estethica at London Fashion Week will be in it's 7th season this September 2009.

Showcasing the best in British ethical fashion, the following are those who were involved in the February 2009 Exhibition concerned with reuse, recycling, reclaiming and zero waste.

MIA
Raeburn Design
From Somewhere
Goodone
Mark Liu
Minna
Oxfam 'Sustain Me'
Reet Aus

Mary Queen of Charity Shops

Following the successful television series, Mary Portas teamed up with Grazia to create a pop up charity/vintage shop early summer 2009 in Westfield Shopping Centre, West London.

Charity Shop project:

It can only be a good thing for charity shops to improve their 'brand'. A higher profile will not only to encourage consumers to donate unwanted clothing but also to consider them as a place to shop.

The television show highlighted the amount of 'junk' people own and want to clear out, but aren't good enough quality to be sold on or donated to charity organisations.

As a result of this, a mainstream option needs to become available for the clothing people no longer want to wear and feel isn't good enough to be sold in a charity shop. This clothing, the current destination for which is the bin (and therefore landfill), should be collected by or donated to rag/textile recycling businesses to be recycled or downcycled - and diverted from landfill.

Many people are also unaware of the links charity organisations have with such textile recyling companies. Any garments passed on to charity organisations that they cannot sell will be passed on to recycling rag companies.

RE:Fashion Awards 2008

On Thursday 13th November 2008 at Shoreditch Town Hall in London, the first ever RE:Fashion Awards took place. I was there to see the action, fashion and very inspirational guests and speakers. See the below list of winners and runners up.

RE:Fashion Designer of the Year Award

WINNER: From Somewhere
RUNNER UP: 1) People Tree and 2) Junky Styling

New RE:Designer of the Year Award

WINNER: Izzy Lane
RUNNER UP: 1) Mark Liu 2) Goodone 3) Fifi Bijoux

RE:Use Award

Sponsored by Worn Again

WINNER: From Somewhere
RUNNERS UP: 1) Traid and 2) Junky Styling

RE:Retailer Award

WINNER: Adili
RUNNERS UP: 1) Frugi and 2) Chandni Chowk

RE:Manufacturing Award: Celebrating the unsung heroes of fashion manufacture, the ones who implement responsible and progressive practises.

WINNER: Mantis/Sunflag

RUNNER UP: 1) Paramo/Miquelina and 2) UniqueEco

RE:Consumer Awareness Award: Sponsored by The Body Shop

WINNER: Marie Claire
Read Marie Claire’s report on the win here.

RUNNERS UP: 1) People Tree and 2) War on Want

RE:Cotton Award: Celebrating organisations who have taken big steps in improving practises in cotton production.

Commended: Pants to Poverty
Commended: Tesco

RE:Africa Award: Sponsored by 1927 Limited, recognising outstanding practises for bringing about change to people or environment in Africa.

WINNER: Made
RUNNERS UP: 1) Soul of Africa 2) Stella Atal

RE:Environment Award: Sponsored by Ecologist, for designers or labels who have pioneered practises to minimise their impact on the environment.

WINNER: Veja
RUNNERS UP: 1) Marie Sar Agencies 2) The Hemp Trading Company (THTC)

RE:People Award: Sponsored by Craig Cohon and CIWEM, for businesses who have changed the lives of people through their supply change and have the potential to achieve more.

WINNER: Pachacuti
RUNNERS UP: 1) People Tree and 2) Benedicta Nanyonga

Charities, The High Street and Recycling

Oxfam and Marks and Spencer


As mentioned in a previous blog post, the union between Oxfam and Marks and Spencer encourages consumers to donate their unwanted M&S clothing to Oxfam in return for vouchers to be spent at the national high street retailer. Part of the 'Plan A' initiative encourages consumers to think about re:use and encourages them not to throw their old and unwated clothing away. See the Marks and Spencers Plan A website for more information on the Clothing Exchange

TRAID
(Textile Recycling for Aid and International Development)

has many charity shops in and around London, collecting clothing and sorting them at their Wembley headquarters. TRAID also have many clothing banks situated around the country and in 2002 launched their Upcycling initiative TRAID:remade.

This photograph was taken in the flagship Topshop store in Oxford Circus, London, of a traid clothing donation bank. Topshop customers are encouraged to donate their unwanted clothing to the charity.

Oxfam

Oxfam is currently leading the way in charitable sustainable fashion initiatives.
Joining forces with Marks and Spencer to encourage consumers to donate their unwanted M&S clothing to Oxfam in return for vouchers off new Marks and Spencer purchases.

The above (bin bag) image was taken on a visit to the wastesaver plant in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire. The bags of clothes delivered here are just one of the many daily deliveries, all sorted by hand and then sent on to the relevant Oxfam outlet to be sold.

(Top photo of the Oxfam in Camden, London. Photo to the left - flyer advertisement for the Marks and Spencer and Oxfam Clothing Exchange).

Taken from the s/s 09 Ecologist magazine Oxfam has five areas highlighting 'eco' and ethical fashion design.
Loved for Longer

Fairtrade

Reinvented

Made with Love

Good Fashion Sense

How To Donate Your Unwanted Clothing

There are many ways to donate your unwanted clothes to charity. Donation bags can be collected from your local charity shop and are often delivered to your house. Large boxes are located in all communities and can usually be found near recycling bins for more popular recyclables such as plastic and paper. Where the clothes and shoes are to be donated please make sure they are in good condition.

Clothes that are stained, worn or damaged try making them into cloths or more domestic textile products or find your nearest textile recycler - this will often be called 'downcycling' - but doing the same job as the 'rag and bone men' of a previous time.

MA Fashion & the Environment

I have been offered a place to study on the MA Fashion and the Environment at London College of Fashion to start September 2009.

Essential Upcycling Companies

Junky Styling

12 Dray Walk

The Old Truman Brewery

91 Brick Lane

London

E1 6RF

Raeburn Design
Stocked at:

LIBERTY

Christopher Raeburn AW09 Menswear available exclusively at Liberty from September 2009

www.liberty.co.uk

BROWNS FOCUS

Christopher Raeburn AW09 Womenswear available at Browns Focus from September 2009

www.brownsfashion.com

From Somewhere

341 Portobello Road

London

W10

Goodone

Stocked at:

Laden Showrooms

103 Brick Lane,

London

E1 6SE

Unique Boutique

The Triangle Shopping Centre,

Exchange Square,

Manchester,

M4 3TR

Fabrications

7 Broadway market,

Hackney,

London,

E8 4PH

Bolshie

57 Bank Street,

Glasgow

G12 8NF

Bread n Honey

205 Whitecross Street,

London

EC1Y 8QP

Jeans UPcycle

As well as unwanted garments of good quality, garments that are slightly damaged or stained can also be used as source material for upcycling.

The areas of staining and damage can be cut or folded out to manuipulate the good quality fabric and transform the shape into a more desirable unique garment of higher value.

The example here: taking a pair of worn out mens jeans with a broken zip, ripped seam and worn down hem.

Transforming them into an unusual denim dress, making a feature of the stitching and pocket detail.

1 Garment - 5 Days - 5 Ways

Taking one trench coat and wearing it every day for 5 days.

Each evening I transformed the shape, neither adding nor taking away any fabric from the original garment.

This alteration and transformation journey aims to highlight the potential variety within one item of clothing and to encourage creativity to extend the life cycles of garments that are no longer desired.

Reduce
Reuse
Recycle

UPcycling: Make an impact
(but not on the environment)

Xhibit

University of the Arts London annual exhibition 'Xhibit' requested sustainable entries for the 2009 show. My garment, selected to be in the exhibition, is an upcycled dress made from 3 pairs of trousers that had been donated to Oxfam.

For more information about UAL and Xhibit click here

A Brief Introduction

My favourite aspect of sustainable design is re:design and upcycling. It is an individual and unique approach to getting the most out of a garment. The creative ways in which a garment can be transformed, improved and made into something wearable and desired, are more exciting to me than any other aspect of sustainable fashion.