Clothing Ration Books

After a weekend spent with Grandma, old photographs and Wedding Albums of 4 generations, the clothing ration books above were found mixed in with various family birth and death certificates.

No clothes could be bought without also handing over the ration coupons, leading to the development of a 'black market' where those who did not want to buy any new clothes could sell their coupons to others wanting or needing new clothing for example, a wedding dress.

Revolve: Recycled Products

Walking past a skip today I saw this circuit board on the top of the contents. It reminded me of a company I heard of initially about 3 years ago -Revolve UK. They take circuit boards, plastic bags, juice cartons, coffee cups, yoghurt pots and plastic bottles and recycle them into new materials and products. Click here to be taken to their website. They are familiar products made with unusual and unique 100% recycled materials.

Boots Display

I love Boots.
They are my favourite type of footwear.

Walking through Sainsburys (above left) and then BHS (above right) I saw these boots displayed and I was really shocked to see the stores obviously not making any secret of how mass produced, syntheticially similar they all are!

I'm not saying they are amazing quality and deserve to be put on a pedestal, but i'm sure there used to be a time that stores at least attempted to mask the fact their products were mass produced and cheap by presenting them well?? It is such a shame that they are hooked together and packed in like sardines so the store can sell more, faster, and in the process entirely compromise on display.

I know this isn't just BHS and Sainsburys by the way, there are plenty of stores that are worse, but it seems really sad.

Recycling Vans that have been driving round London

Mary Portas V Day

Real life mannequin: Three 'senior citizens' modelling in the window of House of Fraser on Oxford Street a couple of days ago. Filming with Mary Portas for the new series of Queen of Charity Shops.

The V Day campaign aimes to encourage everyone to volunteer at their local charity shop, encourage donation and consumption of second hand clothing.

As a result of this I will spend some time volunteering at my local charity shop - The Salvation Army.

SHOWstudio Fashion Revolution

Show Studio Fashion revolution article

As Fashion Week and the Design Festival hit London, so did the opening of SHOWStudio Fashion Revolution. As well as providing the new base for London Fashion Week, Somerset House is also the venue for the temporary exhibition.

SHOWStudio is a website and blog platform established by fashion photographer Nick Knight that aims to ‘demystify the creative process’ (www.showstudio.com). Opening the virtual doors to The Studio, a mostly hidden world, provides an insight into concept developments, mistakes and inspiring moments that precede the ubiquitous polished fashion image.

The diversity of projects documented within the unique SHOWstudio frame are regularly uploaded by an industry network of contributors and collaborators. Viewers are able to voice their opinions and interact with the website content, blurring the divide between ‘viewer’ and ‘artist’. One feature of the exhibition that demonstrates this concept is Design_Download. Paper patterns for garments designed by Martin Margiela, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, to name a few, are available to download and viewers are encouraged to incorporate their own unique creativity as they construct the garment. When complete, the interpretation is photographed and uploaded onto SHOWstudio.com. The beauty of this concept lies in the fascinating results. Unfortunately sometimes within the mainstream fashion industry ideas of unique interpretation and diversity are replaced with repetitive garment shapes. However, this process communicates the multitude of possibilities that stem from a single pattern when you encourage creativity and participation.

The three main areas of the exhibition are Process, Performance and Participation. As well as including the work of well known designers and fashion in a familiar catwalk or studio setting, the exhibition successfully questions how we see Fashion. It opens our eyes to the importance of movement, body, life, art, music, colour, film and photography. They weave together and pull apart to stimulate ideas and challenge opinions.

As I left the exhibition I felt forced to redefine my view of ‘Fashion’ - an appropriate question in uncertain times of necessary change. SHOWstudio Fashion Revolution displays our time of Fashion transformation, for which the internet will continue to provide an essential platform. Interaction and communication are also vital elements that have the ability to involve and sustain the artist/viewer.

To look beyond the final product and styled image, to question the process, to ask ‘how did it get here? ’ is not exclusive to the core of SHOWstudio. The future of the fashion industry requires all involved within it to ask questions, to redefine, challenge and doubt what we already have. To look behind the scenes, to realise our clothes are part of a much larger ‘fashion’ chain of actions and events. Challenging such actions and looking beyond what we see, remains a key element to sustaining our industry.

Some Things Never Change

I recently found this old photograph of my Uncle carrying me out of one of his 'Hump and Dump' house clearance skips. I was about 8 and loved rummaging through the new arrivals of 'junk'. Amazed at what people threw away, I wished I could take it with me and give it a new home. On one occasion I managed to pursuade my parents to let me 'rescue' a bucket of old spoons so that I could make a wind chime. A ball of string, a roll of selotape and a bucket of PVA later you can imagine the resulting product wasn't exactly a symphony for the ears. To this day I still can't figure out how the string became so tangled!...

and I still can't walk past a skip without having a sneaky peak at its contents.

"Customised" clothing on the high street

Amka 'Trench Dress' All Saints £145.00: Dress that looks like it has been made from a coat
Karen Millen 'customised t-shirt' £69.95

E&KO

'Focuses on value and the re-valuing of things'

The Elvis and Kresse organisation have built their business transforming unwanted fire hoses into luxury handbags. Speaking recently at Crafting Mass Production, a seminar as part of the Greengaged Design Council series, Kresse Wesling saw her business as ‘building value into waste’ (Wesling 2009). Thinking long term however, it may be argued that the fire hoses are not diverted from landfill, merely delayed as they are transformed into another product.

‘Many researchers are beginning to suspect that recycling actually provides an ethical get out of jail free card which liberates consumer conscience and in doing so generates even more waste,’ (Chapman 2005 p.10).

Although upcycling and recycling rely on a supply of clothing waste (generated in part by the disposable nature of cheap clothing) they have a role to play within our fashion system short term. Through education and awareness of the reasons for recycling and upcycling, these business initiatives have the potential to influence lifecycle thinking and change attitudes towards consumption through unique fashion garments.

The work of E&KO was also the inspiration for the 'Wasted' installation at the V&A as part of the Design Festival September 2009.

Fashion Diversity@Museum of London

As part of London Fashion Week the Museum of London has been involved in a series of workshops and fashion shows held in the main foyer of the Museum as 'Fashion Diversity'. The photos here are a couple of outfits from the Junky Styling collection.

Whilst looking around the museum I noticed an interesting comment within the 'trade' themes. It is a quote from a trader in the 17th century but the name was not listed:

"If I should begin to set down the variety of fashions and foreign stuffs brought into England in these items I might seem to number to starts of heaven and sands of the sea"

Although globalisation has become an issue for great debate, trade and export of goods have always been a large part of the history of London.

Radley & The Heart Foundation

The above window notice in this Radly shop reads:

"£40 off your new handbag when you donate an old one,
all donations go to the heart foundation see in store for details"

This photo of the shop was taken at the start of the summer, so I am unsure if the project is still running. I thought it was worth a mention here, as it is another example of high street retailers supporting charities by encouraging their consumers to donate their unwanted fashion products.

It is vital for consumers to become familiar and comfortable with the ideas of donating and reusing clothing and accessories.

Monsoon Campaign - Clothes for Life

Another national high street retailer taking action to encourage consumers to reuse, pass on and donate their unwanted clothing.

Monsoon have launched the 'Clothes for life' campaign
where you will receive a £5 voucher for future purchases of Monsoon clothing (over £30) when you take to the store and donate items of unwanted Monsoon clothing.

The money raised from the resale of these clothes will help support the NewLife Foundation.

Initiatives like this provide fantastic potential source material for Upcycling designers. Maybe to make more people aware of the scheme Monsoon could pass on some of the clothing to Upcycling designers/student designers to create unique garment designs from unwanted Monsoon clothing. The remade and one off pieces would be of a higher value and able to raise more money for the charity.

M&S Waste Targets

A reminder on the wall at M&S in Leeds of their target for zero waste as part of plan A.
Upcycling is a creative and unique way for clothing to be transformed and as such can play a vital role in diverting unwanted clothing items away from landfill sites.

The Marks and Spencer union with Oxfam will also support their campaign for no clothing to end up in landfill. The importance of reusing, donating and wearing for longer is communicated through this target, and upcycling combines all three.

Urban Outfitters: ReNewAll

check out the website

Read the interview

The Urban Renewal (RenewAll) collection from Urban Outfitters is a great example of how Upcycling can be included within the high street fashion retailers. Each piece is made in America from vintage clothing and surplus textile stock.

Urban Outfitters do have a quirky image and maybe this is why the Renewal Collections have sold well. Could the ideas behind the renewal and upcycling format work and sell in all high street stores? What is important is that a stereotype of upcycling doesn't evolve. It is not a 'style', it is not a 'look', it is a method of garment production. A diverse variety of styles and designs can be created, styles to suit all types of fashion retailers using reclaimed garments and textiles.

Myco Anna

A short You Tube video interview clip

This Canadian reclaimed and upcycling fashion company have been in business since 1995. The clothing in the above video is quirky and creative, but a bit too 'patchwork'. If upcycling and reclaimed fashion is to reach a larger audience it needs to move away from the stereotypes of patchwork, and the 'rag doll' look. Upcycling and fashion design based around reclaimed fabrics need to find more inventive ways of using unwanted fabric and garment pieces.

See a clip of some Myco Anna clothes on the catwalk

LMB Textile Recycling

LMB In East London

Professional Texile Recyclers

Lawrence M. Barry is a large textile resale, reuse and upcycling plant.

With over 400 textile and clothing donation banks around London, LMB are a great source for Upcycling designers.

The majority of the clothing donated is sold to African second hand clothing merchants who sell on the clothing or 'mitumba' in markets.

The clothing unsuitable for resale or reuse is sold to textile downcycling and flocking companies who break down the fibres to create fabrics of lower quality.

As well as sourcing unwanted clothing, LMB also work with companies to take the old uniforms and promotional clothing that is no longer required.

The company is involved with education and design collaborations, providing source material for Upcycling designers and design students at various Universities including University of the Arts London.

A new initiative with students from the Univeristy of East London and Dr.Noki to open an Upcycling shop on Bethnal Green Road!!! AMAZING!!!

I collaborated with Zoe Fletcher who is also on my MA course to create a short film about the amazing work LMB do! Click here to be taken to You Tube

Junky Styling - The Book!

Yesterday I bought such a fabulous book!

'Junky Styling - Wardrobe Surgery', put together by the founders of the company, tells the story of this brilliant Upcycling clothing business. Looking at their collections through the years, the developments that have lead them to where they are today and with some helpful 'DIY' tips at the back, it is a great book for any Upcycler- and so inspirational to hear their story.

If you haven't yet visited the store or seen their work, check out their website - click here!

M&S Plan A Update

I recently received an update email from Marks and Spencer regarding their Plan A.

Check out their recent work with Oxfam and the Clothing Exchange, encouraging consumers to donate their unwanted M&S clothing to Oxfam in return for £5 shopping vouchers.

There are also a couple of other articles on the website about how to clear out your wardrobe; what to save, what to give!

Follow this link for the webpage.

Recycle Signs hit the Floor

Paving stones on the floor in Whitstable town in Kent with recycle signs to decorate them!

My Upcycled Dresses - Black Collection

Black Silk Dress: Made from a pair of black silk trousers where the zip had broken

Black Flocked Dress: Made from a pair of dark grey trousers with a flocked pattern.


Dotty Dress: Made from two silk scarves

Folded Dress: Made from half a pair of pin stripe trousers and a wollen dress

Vivienne Westwood // Active Resistance

After watching Vivienne Westwood on Friday Night with Jonathon Ross (aired 10th July 2009) I had to include a link here to her 'Active Resistance' manifesto regarding climate change and mention her inspirational ideas and belief in 'DIY fashion'

Check out her interview on iplayer (although this will expire in a few weeks) so there is also a clip on YouTube

Take a look at her Active Resistance manifesto

And her handwritten 'Fashion DIY' manifesto is included on 'styleontrack' blog.

Wardrobe Refashion

Wardrobe Refashion

Is a fantastic blog based in Melbourne, Australia, encouraging it's viewers to recycle and upcycle unwanted posessions.

The slogan on their home page reads:

'I pledge that I shall refashion, renovate and recycle preloved items for myself for the term of my contract. I pledge that I shall create and craft items of clothing for myself with my own hands in fabric, yarn or other medium for the term of my contract.'

Those that take the pledge are also encouraged to post images, comment and give advice to other makers about their creations.

It's great to see a community website based around upcycling, reuse and DIY fashion. It is a platform for all people to showcase their creations, regardless of ability. The key link is enthusiasm and an interest in sustainability and DIY clothing. Realising the potential of clothing and extending the life cycle of unwanted clothing to create unique garment designs remains at the heart of upcycling.

PreLoved

I was told about this brand last night at a party by a friend of a friend to whom I had explained the kind of work I do and what this blog is about. I had never heard of Preloved before so I checked it out and thought it was worth a mention because it's a good website with amazing upcycled clothes - and with the emphasis firmly placed on good design and style as well as reclaimed textiles and upcycling!

'Reinvention, Renewal: Preloved creates one-of-a-kind clothing from reclaimed vintage fabrics. Our passion is design and our philosophy is sustainability.' (www.preloved.ca)

MIA

I first heard of MIA after they won the 'Make Your Mark in Fashion' compe-
tition. Young people aged 14-30 were "set the challenge to form a team and create a new brand with the help and support of an established sustainable fashion label" (www.makeyourmarkinfashion.org). When visiting Junky Styling recently I saw a few MIA dresses and thought they were beautiful!

Find out more about MIA and Make Your Mark In Fashion
As also commented on greenmystyle.com

Recycle, Donate, UPcycle

Recycle & Downcycle: Clothing and textiles that can be broken down and used for their fibre content. The yarn and resulting fabric produced may not be of a good quality, in which case this process can be referred to as 'downcycling'. However, if the fibres and yarn produced are similar quality or better than the original, the term recyling is more relevant.

Donate: Passing on clothing of good condition to be sold on and worn again without making any adjustments, usually such items are donated to a charitable organisation.

Upcycle: Clothing most suitable for this category will be clothing that is mostly of good quality but may have a stain or tear in the fabric, or the garment is unwearable in another way. Such clothing will not be taken to a charity shop as it is unsuitable for resale, and for many people the only option for clothing of this nature will be thrown into the bin, thrown 'away'.

UPcycle Couture - Gary Harvey

Taking Re:use and Upcycling to create couture garments.

Gary Harvey shows how every day garments and objects can be used to creates amazing creations.

Pushing the limits and creativity of Upcycling.

EDF Green Britain Day

EDF Energy encourages Green Britain Day on 20.07.09

As well as many other 'green' activities and initiatives EDF are promoting, it is good to see that a green clothing slogan:

'Swapping is the new shopping'

is included in the advertising!

Swap your unwanted clothes for new clothes from others. That cardigan at the back of the wardrobe you never wear anymore may just be the garment someone else is looking for!

TRAID

TRAID
(Textile Recycling for Aid and International Development)

Is another charity also promoting the possibilites and advantages of Upcycling to reduce the amount of textile and clothing waste.

The TRAIDremade collections are currently stocked in the Brighton branch and the flagship store in Camden. As well as accepting donations in store, Traid also collect unwanted clothing around the country in their collection banks such as in the photograph above.

Estethica at London Fashion Week

Estethica at London Fashion Week will be in it's 7th season this September 2009.

Showcasing the best in British ethical fashion, the following are those who were involved in the February 2009 Exhibition concerned with reuse, recycling, reclaiming and zero waste.

MIA
Raeburn Design
From Somewhere
Goodone
Mark Liu
Minna
Oxfam 'Sustain Me'
Reet Aus

Mary Queen of Charity Shops

Following the successful television series, Mary Portas teamed up with Grazia to create a pop up charity/vintage shop early summer 2009 in Westfield Shopping Centre, West London.

Charity Shop project:

It can only be a good thing for charity shops to improve their 'brand'. A higher profile will not only to encourage consumers to donate unwanted clothing but also to consider them as a place to shop.

The television show highlighted the amount of 'junk' people own and want to clear out, but aren't good enough quality to be sold on or donated to charity organisations.

As a result of this, a mainstream option needs to become available for the clothing people no longer want to wear and feel isn't good enough to be sold in a charity shop. This clothing, the current destination for which is the bin (and therefore landfill), should be collected by or donated to rag/textile recycling businesses to be recycled or downcycled - and diverted from landfill.

Many people are also unaware of the links charity organisations have with such textile recyling companies. Any garments passed on to charity organisations that they cannot sell will be passed on to recycling rag companies.

RE:Fashion Awards 2008

On Thursday 13th November 2008 at Shoreditch Town Hall in London, the first ever RE:Fashion Awards took place. I was there to see the action, fashion and very inspirational guests and speakers. See the below list of winners and runners up.

RE:Fashion Designer of the Year Award

WINNER: From Somewhere
RUNNER UP: 1) People Tree and 2) Junky Styling

New RE:Designer of the Year Award

WINNER: Izzy Lane
RUNNER UP: 1) Mark Liu 2) Goodone 3) Fifi Bijoux

RE:Use Award

Sponsored by Worn Again

WINNER: From Somewhere
RUNNERS UP: 1) Traid and 2) Junky Styling

RE:Retailer Award

WINNER: Adili
RUNNERS UP: 1) Frugi and 2) Chandni Chowk

RE:Manufacturing Award: Celebrating the unsung heroes of fashion manufacture, the ones who implement responsible and progressive practises.

WINNER: Mantis/Sunflag

RUNNER UP: 1) Paramo/Miquelina and 2) UniqueEco

RE:Consumer Awareness Award: Sponsored by The Body Shop

WINNER: Marie Claire
Read Marie Claire’s report on the win here.

RUNNERS UP: 1) People Tree and 2) War on Want

RE:Cotton Award: Celebrating organisations who have taken big steps in improving practises in cotton production.

Commended: Pants to Poverty
Commended: Tesco

RE:Africa Award: Sponsored by 1927 Limited, recognising outstanding practises for bringing about change to people or environment in Africa.

WINNER: Made
RUNNERS UP: 1) Soul of Africa 2) Stella Atal

RE:Environment Award: Sponsored by Ecologist, for designers or labels who have pioneered practises to minimise their impact on the environment.

WINNER: Veja
RUNNERS UP: 1) Marie Sar Agencies 2) The Hemp Trading Company (THTC)

RE:People Award: Sponsored by Craig Cohon and CIWEM, for businesses who have changed the lives of people through their supply change and have the potential to achieve more.

WINNER: Pachacuti
RUNNERS UP: 1) People Tree and 2) Benedicta Nanyonga

Charities, The High Street and Recycling

Oxfam and Marks and Spencer


As mentioned in a previous blog post, the union between Oxfam and Marks and Spencer encourages consumers to donate their unwanted M&S clothing to Oxfam in return for vouchers to be spent at the national high street retailer. Part of the 'Plan A' initiative encourages consumers to think about re:use and encourages them not to throw their old and unwated clothing away. See the Marks and Spencers Plan A website for more information on the Clothing Exchange

TRAID
(Textile Recycling for Aid and International Development)

has many charity shops in and around London, collecting clothing and sorting them at their Wembley headquarters. TRAID also have many clothing banks situated around the country and in 2002 launched their Upcycling initiative TRAID:remade.

This photograph was taken in the flagship Topshop store in Oxford Circus, London, of a traid clothing donation bank. Topshop customers are encouraged to donate their unwanted clothing to the charity.